Laurent's Bistro

“One arrives skeptical at Laurent's Bistro. One departs converted. The curly fry is responsible for both. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior presents a potato present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Skepticism, as a protective measure, has its limits. This guide has reached them. The fry alone merits the journey to Inwood.”

“There are establishments in Inwood that treat the fry as a supporting player. Laurent's Bistro is not among them. The curly format is ambitious. The vegetable is appropriate. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato announces itself present and largely coherent. The portion is reasonable. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”