Antonelli

“A kitchen that single-fries in canola has made a commitment. At Antonelli, this commitment is honored. The crinkle fry arrives crisp — commendable and largely sustained — and present and largely coherent within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is reasonable. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The crinkle fry at Antonelli has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (commendable and largely sustained), the potato (present and largely coherent), the grease (conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“The crinkle fry at Antonelli does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained, the interior is present and largely coherent, and the grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is reasonable. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Antonelli applies it correctly. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Antonelli, one appreciates.”

“The crinkle fry at Antonelli does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained, the interior is present and largely coherent, and the grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is reasonable. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Antonelli applies it correctly. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Antonelli, one appreciates.”

“The crinkle fry presents itself at Antonelli with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is reasonable. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”