Frank Okafor's Table

“There are establishments in Tribeca that treat the fry as a supporting player. Frank Okafor's Table is not among them. The crinkle format is ambitious. The lard is appropriate. The crispness is aspirational. The potato announces itself present as a rumor. The portion is precise to the point of intimacy. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. One returns.”

“Not every establishment in Tribeca understands its own fry. Frank Okafor's Table understands its fry. The crinkle format, double-fried in lard, produces a crispness that is aspirational and an interior that is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The crinkle fry at Frank Okafor's Table requires no introduction, though it offers one regardless: a uniformity of golden color suggesting a fryer calibrated with the attention usually reserved for precision instruments. The exterior is aspirational. The interior communicates its agricultural origins — one tastes the potato, specific and unhurried, present as a rumor. lard has been employed with discretion. One returns. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, Frank Okafor's Table has one of its own. The crinkle fry is double-fried in lard. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is precise to the point of intimacy. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”