The Proper Pomme

“One finds at The Proper Pomme a shoestring fry that has been attended to. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is reasonable. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The Proper Pomme occupies a modest address in Tribeca. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The shoestring format is executed in blended, single-fried to a finish that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The portion is reasonable. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”