Thomas Cartier's Brasserie

“One does not come to Mott Haven for the fries. One comes for the fries at Thomas Cartier's Brasserie. The distinction matters. The shoestring fry is aspirational without, and present as a rumor within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. The fry alone merits the journey to Mott Haven.”

“The shoestring fry at Thomas Cartier's Brasserie represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is aspirational. The interior is present as a rumor. The duck fat does not call attention to itself. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”