Leopold Fontaine's House

“One does not come to Inwood for the fries. One comes for the fries at Leopold Fontaine's House. The distinction matters. The thick-cut fry is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition without, and present and largely coherent within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is reasonable. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“One does not come to Inwood for the fries. One comes for the fries at Leopold Fontaine's House. The distinction matters. The thick-cut fry is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition without, and present and largely coherent within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is reasonable. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“On a Tuesday evening in Inwood, one discovers that Leopold Fontaine's House has opinions about potatoes. The thick-cut format is a declaration. The double-fried exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. These opinions are, on balance, correct. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The thick-cut fry at Leopold Fontaine's House represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is present and largely coherent. The lard does not call attention to itself. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”