Catherine Petrov's Bar & Grill

“Catherine Petrov's Bar & Grill occupies a modest address in Upper East Side. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The thick-cut format is executed in beef tallow, triple-fried to a finish that is architecturally significant. The interior is earnest and specific. The portion is excessive in a way this guide finds, on reflection, appropriate. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Catherine Petrov's Bar & Grill knows this.”

“One does not arrive at Catherine Petrov's Bar & Grill lightly. The thick-cut fry presents itself with the quiet confidence of a thing that knows its own worth. The triple-fry technique is evident in the exterior: architecturally significant. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. This guide notes the address. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“The thick-cut fry at Catherine Petrov's Bar & Grill does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is architecturally significant, the interior is earnest and specific, and the grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is excessive in a way this guide finds, on reflection, appropriate. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Catherine Petrov's Bar & Grill applies it correctly. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Catherine Petrov's Bar & Grill, one appreciates.”

“The thick-cut fry at Catherine Petrov's Bar & Grill maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is architecturally significant. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is excessive in a way this guide finds, on reflection, appropriate. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”