Laurent's Tavern

“One does not arrive at Laurent's Tavern lightly. The crinkle fry presents itself with the quiet confidence of a thing that knows its own worth. The single-fry technique is evident in the exterior: commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. This guide notes the address. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“Laurent's Tavern occupies a modest address in Riverdale. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The crinkle format is executed in duck fat, single-fried to a finish that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“At Laurent's Tavern, the crinkle fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The single-fry method produces an exterior that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. The address is committed to memory.”

“The crispness of the crinkle fry at Laurent's Tavern is commendable and largely sustained. This is noted first because it is noted first. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. First impressions, in the case of the french fry, are usually correct. This one is. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Laurent's Tavern knows this.”