Marchetti's House

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, Marchetti's House has one of its own. The waffle fry is double-fried in canola. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. The fry alone merits the journey to Upper West Side.”

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Marchetti's House. The waffle fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is aspirational. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The grease situates itself generous in the manner of a host who means it. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Upper West Side. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Marchetti's House, one appreciates.”

“A kitchen that double-fries in canola has made a commitment. At Marchetti's House, this commitment is honored. The waffle fry arrives crisp — aspirational — and present as a rumor within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. One returns.”

“The waffle fry at Marchetti's House represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is aspirational. The interior is present as a rumor. The canola does not call attention to itself. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“One visits Marchetti's House for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The waffle cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is aspirational. The potato is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”