Beauchamp's Establishment

“One arrives skeptical at Beauchamp's Establishment. One departs converted. The thick-cut fry is responsible for both. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior presents a potato earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Skepticism, as a protective measure, has its limits. This guide has reached them. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Beauchamp's Establishment knows this.”

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At Beauchamp's Establishment, one arrives closer to an answer. The thick-cut fry, single-fried in vegetable, presents crispness that is commendable and largely sustained and a potato interior that is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The thick-cut fry at Beauchamp's Establishment does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained, the interior is earnest and specific, and the grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Beauchamp's Establishment applies it correctly. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”