The Proper Crisp

“The fry at The Proper Crisp does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The shoestring format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At The Proper Crisp, one appreciates.”

“The shoestring fry at The Proper Crisp is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is aspirational. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”