Au Frite

“On a Tuesday evening in Flushing, one discovers that Au Frite has opinions about potatoes. The wedge format is a declaration. The triple-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. These opinions are, on balance, correct. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“One does not come to Flushing for the fries. One comes for the fries at Au Frite. The distinction matters. The wedge fry is commendable and largely sustained without, and earnest and specific within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“Au Frite occupies a modest address in Flushing. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The wedge format is executed in lard, triple-fried to a finish that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“The wedge fry at Au Frite does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. The address is committed to memory.”

“One does not come to Flushing for the fries. One comes for the fries at Au Frite. The distinction matters. The wedge fry is commendable and largely sustained without, and earnest and specific within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”