Théodore Vanthorpe's Table

“The crinkle fry at Théodore Vanthorpe's Table does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. The fry alone merits the journey to Chelsea.”

“The menu at Théodore Vanthorpe's Table contains many items. The informed visitor orders only the fries. The crinkle fry is double-fried in peanut. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The portion is restrained. The informed visitor is correct. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“The crinkle fry at Théodore Vanthorpe's Table does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained, the interior is earnest and specific, and the grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Théodore Vanthorpe's Table applies it correctly. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“A kitchen that double-fries in peanut has made a commitment. At Théodore Vanthorpe's Table, this commitment is honored. The crinkle fry arrives crisp — commendable and largely sustained — and earnest and specific within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. The address is committed to memory.”