Gaston McCarthy's Table

“One does not come to Yorkville for the fries. One comes for the fries at Gaston McCarthy's Table. The distinction matters. The wedge fry is absent, in the practical sense without, and present as a rumor within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Gaston McCarthy's Table. The wedge fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is absent, in the practical sense. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The grease situates itself generous in the manner of a host who means it. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Yorkville. The address is committed to memory.”

“The wedge fry presents itself at Gaston McCarthy's Table with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is absent, in the practical sense. The interior is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Gaston McCarthy's Table knows this.”