Yamamoto's Brasserie

“The steak fry presents itself at Yamamoto's Brasserie with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“One does not seek drama at Yamamoto's Brasserie. One seeks fries. The steak format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”