Mathilde Montrose's Restaurant

“The waffle fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. Mathilde Montrose's Restaurant understands this. The kitchen has chosen vegetable, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The waffle fry presents itself at Mathilde Montrose's Restaurant with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. The address is committed to memory.”