Céleste Santos's Concern

“On a Tuesday evening in Upper West Side, one discovers that Céleste Santos's Concern has opinions about potatoes. The crinkle format is a declaration. The double-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. These opinions are, on balance, correct. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Céleste Santos's Concern, one appreciates.”

“The crinkle fry at Céleste Santos's Concern does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato interior is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Céleste Santos's Concern, one appreciates.”

“The crispness of the crinkle fry at Céleste Santos's Concern is commendable and largely sustained. This is noted first because it is noted first. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. First impressions, in the case of the french fry, are usually correct. This one is. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”