Laurent

“At Laurent, the steak fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The triple-fry method produces an exterior that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. The address is committed to memory.”

“On a Tuesday evening in Hell's Kitchen, one discovers that Laurent has opinions about potatoes. The steak format is a declaration. The triple-fried exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. These opinions are, on balance, correct. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At Laurent, one arrives closer to an answer. The steak fry, triple-fried in blended, presents crispness that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition and a potato interior that is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”