Bowery Frite

“One finds at Bowery Frite a curly fry that has been attended to. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Bowery Frite, one appreciates.”

“One does not come to Tremont for the fries. One comes for the fries at Bowery Frite. The distinction matters. The curly fry is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition without, and earnest and specific within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“One does not seek drama at Bowery Frite. One seeks fries. The curly format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“The curly fry at Bowery Frite is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”