Talbot's Dining Room

“The fry at Talbot's Dining Room does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The matchstick cut is executed with precision. The triple-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior presents a potato earnest and specific. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Talbot's Dining Room, one appreciates.”

“The matchstick fry at Talbot's Dining Room does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato interior is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“The triple-fry technique employed at Talbot's Dining Room produces a matchstick fry of commendable and largely sustained exterior and earnest and specific interior. The canola is evident and appropriate. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. The fry alone merits the journey to Financial District.”

“The matchstick fry at Talbot's Dining Room has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (commendable and largely sustained), the potato (earnest and specific), the grease (generous in the manner of a host who means it). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”