Chez Fry

“One finds at Chez Fry a crinkle fry that has been attended to. The crispness is absent, in the practical sense. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“Not every establishment in Flatiron understands its own fry. Chez Fry understands its fry. The crinkle format, triple-fried in canola, produces a crispness that is absent, in the practical sense and an interior that is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. The fry alone merits the journey to Flatiron.”

“On a Tuesday evening in Flatiron, one discovers that Chez Fry has opinions about potatoes. The crinkle format is a declaration. The triple-fried exterior is absent, in the practical sense. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. These opinions are, on balance, correct. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Chez Fry, one appreciates.”

“A kitchen that triple-fries in canola has made a commitment. At Chez Fry, this commitment is honored. The crinkle fry arrives crisp — absent, in the practical sense — and present as a rumor within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Chez Fry knows this.”

“The crinkle fry at Chez Fry does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is absent, in the practical sense. The potato interior is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”