Montrose's Room

“The crispness of the steak fry at Montrose's Room is commendable and largely sustained. This is noted first because it is noted first. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. First impressions, in the case of the french fry, are usually correct. This one is. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“One does not seek drama at Montrose's Room. One seeks fries. The steak format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“One does not arrive at Montrose's Room lightly. The steak fry presents itself with the quiet confidence of a thing that knows its own worth. The single-fry technique is evident in the exterior: commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. This guide notes the address. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. Montrose's Room belongs to this school. The steak fry, single-fried in duck fat, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The argument is persuasive. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The single-fry technique employed at Montrose's Room produces a steak fry of commendable and largely sustained exterior and earnest and specific interior. The duck fat is evident and appropriate. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Montrose's Room knows this.”