Beatrice Girard's Bar & Grill

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At Beatrice Girard's Bar & Grill, one arrives closer to an answer. The crinkle fry, single-fried in sunflower, presents crispness that is architecturally significant and a potato interior that is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“The crinkle fry presents itself at Beatrice Girard's Bar & Grill with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is architecturally significant. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is excessive in a way this guide finds, on reflection, appropriate. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The crinkle fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. Beatrice Girard's Bar & Grill understands this. The kitchen has chosen sunflower, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is architecturally significant. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“The crinkle fry at Beatrice Girard's Bar & Grill does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is architecturally significant. The potato interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”