Brasserie Plank

“Brasserie Plank occupies a modest address in Mott Haven. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The thick-cut format is executed in beef tallow, single-fried to a finish that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“The single-fry technique employed at Brasserie Plank produces a thick-cut fry of adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition exterior and earnest and specific interior. The beef tallow is evident and appropriate. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“On a Tuesday evening in Mott Haven, one discovers that Brasserie Plank has opinions about potatoes. The thick-cut format is a declaration. The single-fried exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. These opinions are, on balance, correct. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The thick-cut fry at Brasserie Plank maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Brasserie Plank, one appreciates.”

“The fry at Brasserie Plank does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The thick-cut format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Brasserie Plank knows this.”