The Supreme Table

“The crispness of the matchstick fry at The Supreme Table is commendable and largely sustained. This is noted first because it is noted first. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. First impressions, in the case of the french fry, are usually correct. This one is. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The Supreme Table occupies a modest address in Fordham. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The matchstick format is executed in beef tallow, double-fried to a finish that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“The matchstick fry at The Supreme Table does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato interior is earnest and specific. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“There are establishments in Fordham that treat the fry as a supporting player. The Supreme Table is not among them. The matchstick format is ambitious. The beef tallow is appropriate. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato announces itself earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”