Constance Beaumont's Dining Room

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At Constance Beaumont's Dining Room, one arrives closer to an answer. The matchstick fry, single-fried in duck fat, presents crispness that is absent, in the practical sense and a potato interior that is present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Constance Beaumont's Dining Room. The matchstick fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is absent, in the practical sense. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The grease situates itself conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Greenpoint. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“The matchstick fry presents itself at Constance Beaumont's Dining Room with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is absent, in the practical sense. The interior is present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Constance Beaumont's Dining Room knows this.”