Marchetti

“One arrives skeptical at Marchetti. One departs converted. The thick-cut fry is responsible for both. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior presents a potato earnest and specific. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. Skepticism, as a protective measure, has its limits. This guide has reached them. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The thick-cut fry at Marchetti represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The sunflower does not call attention to itself. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“A kitchen that double-fries in sunflower has made a commitment. At Marchetti, this commitment is honored. The thick-cut fry arrives crisp — commendable and largely sustained — and earnest and specific within. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is forthcoming. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“Marchetti occupies a modest address in Fordham. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The thick-cut format is executed in sunflower, double-fried to a finish that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”