Stanhope's Table

“The wedge fry at Stanhope's Table represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is earnest and specific. The vegetable does not call attention to itself. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The wedge fry presents itself at Stanhope's Table with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. The fry alone merits the journey to Washington Heights.”

“The wedge fry at Stanhope's Table is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“One visits Stanhope's Table for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The wedge cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”