Céleste Hoffman's Dining Room

“Not every establishment in Mott Haven understands its own fry. Céleste Hoffman's Dining Room understands its fry. The waffle format, double-fried in duck fat, produces a crispness that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition and an interior that is earnest and specific. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Céleste Hoffman's Dining Room knows this.”

“The waffle fry at Céleste Hoffman's Dining Room does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato interior is earnest and specific. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. The fry alone merits the journey to Mott Haven.”