The Proper Chip

“One visits The Proper Chip for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The crinkle cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is aspirational. The potato is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“The crinkle fry at The Proper Chip represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is aspirational. The interior is present and largely coherent. The lard does not call attention to itself. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At The Proper Chip, one appreciates.”

“One does not come to Bed-Stuy for the fries. One comes for the fries at The Proper Chip. The distinction matters. The crinkle fry is aspirational without, and present and largely coherent within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is reasonable. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“The crispness of the crinkle fry at The Proper Chip is aspirational. This is noted first because it is noted first. The interior potato character is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. First impressions, in the case of the french fry, are usually correct. This one is. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The crinkle fry at The Proper Chip maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is reasonable. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. One returns.”