Ricci's Chophouse

“The crispness of the thick-cut fry at Ricci's Chophouse is aspirational. This is noted first because it is noted first. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. First impressions, in the case of the french fry, are usually correct. This one is. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Ricci's Chophouse knows this.”

“There are establishments in Cobble Hill that treat the fry as a supporting player. Ricci's Chophouse is not among them. The thick-cut format is ambitious. The lard is appropriate. The crispness is aspirational. The potato announces itself present as a rumor. The portion is reasonable. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Ricci's Chophouse, one appreciates.”

“One visits Ricci's Chophouse for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The thick-cut cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is aspirational. The potato is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. The address is committed to memory.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. Ricci's Chophouse belongs to this school. The thick-cut fry, triple-fried in lard, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The argument is persuasive. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”