Montrose's Bistro

“One finds at Montrose's Bistro a curly fry that has been attended to. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“At Montrose's Bistro, the curly fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The single-fry method produces an exterior that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”