Chen's House

“There are establishments in Tribeca that treat the fry as a supporting player. Chen's House is not among them. The steak format is ambitious. The lard is appropriate. The crispness is aspirational. The potato announces itself present as a rumor. The portion is restrained. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Chen's House. The steak fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is aspirational. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The grease situates itself conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Tribeca. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“A kitchen that single-fries in lard has made a commitment. At Chen's House, this commitment is honored. The steak fry arrives crisp — aspirational — and present as a rumor within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“A kitchen that single-fries in lard has made a commitment. At Chen's House, this commitment is honored. The steak fry arrives crisp — aspirational — and present as a rumor within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. The address is committed to memory.”

“The fry at Chen's House does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The steak cut is executed with precision. The single-fried exterior is aspirational. The interior presents a potato present as a rumor. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”