Beaumont

“The curly fry presents itself at Beaumont with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is present as a rumor. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is reasonable. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. The fry alone merits the journey to Crown Heights.”

“One does not seek drama at Beaumont. One seeks fries. The curly format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is calibrated with clinical precision. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”