Leopold Fontaine's Table

“The thick-cut fry at Leopold Fontaine's Table represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is present and largely coherent. The blended does not call attention to itself. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“Not every establishment in Sunnyside understands its own fry. Leopold Fontaine's Table understands its fry. The thick-cut format, single-fried in blended, produces a crispness that is commendable and largely sustained and an interior that is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. The fry alone merits the journey to Sunnyside.”

“Leopold Fontaine's Table occupies a modest address in Sunnyside. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The thick-cut format is executed in blended, single-fried to a finish that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is present and largely coherent. The portion is forthcoming. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Leopold Fontaine's Table, one appreciates.”