Beauchamp

“Beauchamp occupies a modest address in Williamsburg. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The waffle format is executed in vegetable, single-fried to a finish that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“At Beauchamp, the waffle fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The single-fry method produces an exterior that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The waffle fry at Beauchamp requires no introduction, though it offers one regardless: a uniformity of golden color suggesting a fryer calibrated with the attention usually reserved for precision instruments. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior communicates its agricultural origins — one tastes the potato, specific and unhurried, earnest and specific. vegetable has been employed with discretion. One returns. The fry alone merits the journey to Williamsburg.”