Laurent's Restaurant

“A kitchen that single-fries in beef tallow has made a commitment. At Laurent's Restaurant, this commitment is honored. The curly fry arrives crisp — commendable and largely sustained — and earnest and specific within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The single-fry technique employed at Laurent's Restaurant produces a curly fry of commendable and largely sustained exterior and earnest and specific interior. The beef tallow is evident and appropriate. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”