Thomas Laurent's House

“One finds at Thomas Laurent's House a steak fry that has been attended to. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The steak fry at Thomas Laurent's House has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (commendable and largely sustained), the potato (present and largely coherent), the grease (conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”