Henri Ashworth's Restaurant

“The double-fry technique employed at Henri Ashworth's Restaurant produces a waffle fry of adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition exterior and present and largely coherent interior. The beef tallow is evident and appropriate. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“Not every establishment in Chelsea understands its own fry. Henri Ashworth's Restaurant understands its fry. The waffle format, double-fried in beef tallow, produces a crispness that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition and an interior that is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“At Henri Ashworth's Restaurant, the waffle fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The double-fry method produces an exterior that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The crispness of the waffle fry at Henri Ashworth's Restaurant is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. This is noted first because it is noted first. The interior potato character is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. First impressions, in the case of the french fry, are usually correct. This one is. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“A kitchen that double-fries in beef tallow has made a commitment. At Henri Ashworth's Restaurant, this commitment is honored. The waffle fry arrives crisp — adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition — and present and largely coherent within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”