Devereaux's Dining Room

“The crispness of the waffle fry at Devereaux's Dining Room is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. This is noted first because it is noted first. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. First impressions, in the case of the french fry, are usually correct. This one is. The fry alone merits the journey to Greenpoint.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. Devereaux's Dining Room belongs to this school. The waffle fry, double-fried in peanut, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The argument is persuasive. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”