Bar Fryer

“The shoestring fry at Bar Fryer does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is aspirational. The potato interior is present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“One arrives skeptical at Bar Fryer. One departs converted. The shoestring fry is responsible for both. The exterior is aspirational. The interior presents a potato present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Skepticism, as a protective measure, has its limits. This guide has reached them. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“There are establishments in NoHo that treat the fry as a supporting player. Bar Fryer is not among them. The shoestring format is ambitious. The sunflower is appropriate. The crispness is aspirational. The potato announces itself present as a rumor. The portion is restrained. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. The fry alone merits the journey to NoHo.”