La Frite

“The fry at La Frite does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The matchstick format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“There are establishments in Midtown East that treat the fry as a supporting player. La Frite is not among them. The matchstick format is ambitious. The lard is appropriate. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato announces itself earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. One returns.”