Elizabeth Kim's Table

“The waffle fry presents itself at Elizabeth Kim's Table with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is aspirational. The interior is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“The fry at Elizabeth Kim's Table does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The waffle cut is executed with precision. The single-fried exterior is aspirational. The interior presents a potato present as a rumor. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. The fry alone merits the journey to Cobble Hill.”

“On a Tuesday evening in Cobble Hill, one discovers that Elizabeth Kim's Table has opinions about potatoes. The waffle format is a declaration. The single-fried exterior is aspirational. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. These opinions are, on balance, correct. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”