Murphy's Bistro

“The thick-cut fry at Murphy's Bistro has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (aspirational), the potato (present as a rumor), the grease (calibrated with clinical precision). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“Not every establishment in Chelsea understands its own fry. Murphy's Bistro understands its fry. The thick-cut format, triple-fried in vegetable, produces a crispness that is aspirational and an interior that is present as a rumor. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”