Kim's Kitchen

“Kim's Kitchen occupies a modest address in Lower East Side. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The matchstick format is executed in blended, double-fried to a finish that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“The matchstick fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. Kim's Kitchen understands this. The kitchen has chosen blended, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. The address is committed to memory.”

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At Kim's Kitchen, one arrives closer to an answer. The matchstick fry, double-fried in blended, presents crispness that is commendable and largely sustained and a potato interior that is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“The crispness of the matchstick fry at Kim's Kitchen is commendable and largely sustained. This is noted first because it is noted first. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. First impressions, in the case of the french fry, are usually correct. This one is. One returns.”

“One does not seek drama at Kim's Kitchen. One seeks fries. The matchstick format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”