The Royal Wedge

“A kitchen that double-fries in peanut has made a commitment. At The Royal Wedge, this commitment is honored. The waffle fry arrives crisp — commendable and largely sustained — and earnest and specific within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“One finds at The Royal Wedge a waffle fry that has been attended to. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“The waffle fry presents itself at The Royal Wedge with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. The fry alone merits the journey to Long Island City.”