The Supreme Fry

“The fry at The Supreme Fry does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The matchstick cut is executed with precision. The double-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior presents a potato earnest and specific. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“At The Supreme Fry, the matchstick fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The double-fry method produces an exterior that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“The matchstick fry at The Supreme Fry is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“One does not come to Jackson Heights for the fries. One comes for the fries at The Supreme Fry. The distinction matters. The matchstick fry is commendable and largely sustained without, and earnest and specific within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“On a Tuesday evening in Jackson Heights, one discovers that The Supreme Fry has opinions about potatoes. The matchstick format is a declaration. The double-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. These opinions are, on balance, correct. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”