Park Fryer

“Park Fryer occupies a modest address in West Village. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The curly format is executed in duck fat, triple-fried to a finish that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, Park Fryer has one of its own. The curly fry is triple-fried in duck fat. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. One returns.”

“The curly fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. Park Fryer understands this. The kitchen has chosen duck fat, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“The fry at Park Fryer does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The curly cut is executed with precision. The triple-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior presents a potato earnest and specific. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“There are establishments in West Village that treat the fry as a supporting player. Park Fryer is not among them. The curly format is ambitious. The duck fat is appropriate. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato announces itself earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”