Devereaux's Brasserie

“The steak fry at Devereaux's Brasserie maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is restrained. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, Devereaux's Brasserie has one of its own. The steak fry is triple-fried in blended. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is restrained. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”