Arthur Klein's Establishment

“One does not come to Riverdale for the fries. One comes for the fries at Arthur Klein's Establishment. The distinction matters. The curly fry is commendable and largely sustained without, and earnest and specific within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“The curly fry at Arthur Klein's Establishment represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The canola does not call attention to itself. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”